When Kai Tak Airport was operational, the hair-raising highlight of a trip to Hong Kong was often the arrival. A test of mettle for pilots and passengers alike, Kai Tak was a sliver of space narrowly tucked in between the skyscrapers and housing projects of one of the world's most densely populated urban areas. The airport itself, never more than drably functional, was distinctly overshadowed by the navigational feats involved in landing there. With a transfer of leadership to China ...

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